Voltaire, one among a line of remarkable French thinkers, once wrote that if town-dwellers only knew the amount of work it takes to make their bread, they would be amazed. Bread is such a staple of our diet, yet today, we seem to have forgotten just how important of an art breadmaking really is. The skill of kneading the simplest of ingredients in the hands of a master baker is still being practiced today. Thanks to individuals like Nancy Silverton of the famed California-based La Brea Bakery, the traditions associated with the European art of breadmaking have been preserved.
Consider what a simple food product bread is. Made from just three basic ingredients--flour, water and a leavening agent--it is sensitive to fluctuations in humidity levels and temperature changes. Since the dough is such an organic product, it must be handled with a great deal of care and attention.
Bread's role as a life-sustaining food can be traced back to early history. Bakers were highly respected in many communities. Even Marcel Proust considered the baker's profession equal to his own. "If paper was no more to be had, I think I'd like to become a baker. It is an honorable thing to give men their daily bread," he once wrote. Artisan breadmaking owes much of its survival to the craft that was practiced and perfected in the early centuries.
Fortunately for those who enjoy artisan breads, there are still companies like La Brea Bakery that practice this traditional artisan craft. If you're ever fortunate to visit the La Brea Bakery, you'll be amazed at the great variety of specialty breads produced there, reflecting the different flavors of Europe, including French baguettes, rosemary olive oil breads and country style breads. But if you want to experience the taste of artisan bread in your own kitchen, try baking the Country Whole Wheat Bread With Herbs (see the recipe below).
Country Whole Wheat Bread With Herbs
MAKES 1 LOAF
Italian bakers call this bakery-style European country bread Pane (PAN-nay) Integrale, referring to the wheat flour used in the recipe.
1 1/3 cups warm water (105 degrees F. to 11 degrees F.)
1 package active dry yeast
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing the mixing bowl and the baking pan
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
2 to 2 1/2 all-purpose flour
In a large mixing bowl stir together the warm water, yeast, oil, rosemary, salt, and sugar. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes.
Using a wooden spoon stir in the whole wheat flour, about 1/2 cup at a time. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the all-purpose flour, a little at a time. Stir until most of the flour has been absorbed and the dough begins to form a ball.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead in enough of the remaining all-purpose flour to make a moderately stiff dough that is smooth and elastic. Shape the dough into a ball. Lightly grease a mixing bowl with olive oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning once to grease the surface. Cover only with a damp towel; let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in size (about 45 to 60 minutes).
Punch the dough down. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Cover; let it rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly grease a baking sheet. Shape the dough into an 8x4-inch oval loaf. Place on the baking sheet. Sprinkle the dough with additional flour. Cover; let the dough rise until the loaf is almost doubled in size (about 30 to 45 minutes).
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Using a sharp knife slash the top of the loaf several times, making each cut about 1/2 inch deep. Place in the oven. For a crisp crust, spray or brush the loaves with cold water every 3 minutes for the first 9 minutes of baking. After 9 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees F.; lightly sprinkle the bread with additional flour. Bake about 20 minutes or until bread sounds hollow when you tap the top (if necessary, cover loosely with foil for the last 15 minutes of baking). Transfer bread to a wire rack; cool completely.
Bread Baking Tips
• Before mixing the yeast and water, take the temperature of the water using a quick-read thermometer. The water needs to be 105 degrees F. to 115 degrees F. to activate the yeast. If the water is too hot, the yeast will die and the bread won't rise.
• Misting or brushing the crust with water creates a hard, crisp crust once the moisture dries.
• Slashing the dough adds to the character of the loaf, but it also lets the dough expand and allows the moisture under the crust to escape. Make sure your knife is very sharp so you don't tear and deflate the loaf.
• To store, let the bread cool completely and place it in an airtight container or bag. It should keep for 2 to 3 days. Don't store it in the refrigerator since this will make the bread become stale more quickly. Or, you can freeze it in a freezer bag or container for up to 3 months.
• Serve this bread in the traditional Italian way-dip bite-size pieces in olive oil and sprinkle with cracked black pepper. Serve with some Parmesan cheese on the side.
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